Plant-Based USA: A Travel Guide to Eating Animal-Free in America by Veronica Fil is a curated guide to the most unique and special vegan-friendly restaurants in America’s major cities. Eating vegan while traveling has gotten a whole lot easier in the US and abroad over the last decade, so let this book point the way to the must-try eateries while visiting a new city.
Photo by Chili Mustard Onions, Detroit
Plant-Based USA is beautifully designed, lusciously photographed, and contains anecdotes and interviews with the founders and/or chefs of the eateries highlighted.
With a trip to Detroit on the horizon (my hometown, which has seen quite a renaissance in the last few years, yay!), I was intrigued to see which restaurants would be featured in this book, and whether I would be able to get to any of them.
As it turned out, I was only able to get to one during this whirlwind trip, but it was a classic — Seva, a restaurant that began its life in Ann Arbor a million years ago, when I was a student there at the University of Michigan. I love the Detroit branch even more. More on that in a bit.
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First, let’s hear from Veronica Fil in the following excerpt from the Detroit chapter of Plant-Based USA (© 2023 Hardie Grant Explore, an imprint of Hardie Grant Publishing, reprinted by permission):
Detroit — from Plant-Based USA by Veronica Fil
Underpinned by the auto industry, Detroit (also known as Motor City and Motown) is a historically blue-collar city that’s famous for being the original headquarters of Ford Motor Company. They set up shop more than a century ago, but the factory created a large number of jobs and acted as a catalyst for interstate migration.
And as people from other parts of America came to Detroit for employment opportunities, they brought with them different cuisines and ethnicities, all of which are now part of Detroit’s cultural makeup.
In the great culinary landscape, there are a few dishes Detroit is known for, like Coney Island hot dogs and their unique style of square, deep-dish pizza. At its worst, the food can be overly rich and stodgy, but more recently, there’s been a broader shift toward lighter, veganized versions of soul food.
CHILI MUSTARD ONIONS (Vegan)
3411 Brush Street
Detroit, MI 48201
When Pete LaCombe, chef-founder of Chili Mustard Onions (CMO), was in a car accident a few years back, he began to re-evaluate his life. Like many people who have had a health scare—whether it be due to an injury or illness—he decided that the only way forward was to go vegan, not just at a personal level, but through his work feeding others.
For Pete, this meant opening CMO, an ode to one of Detroit’s true culinary masterpieces: the Coney dog. Now, if this is your first time traveling to Detroit, you might not be aware of what that is. So imagine a standard hot dog wedged between bun halves, then add chili, diced onions, and mustard. There you go: cultural phenomenon unlocked.
Usually a Coney dog is made from beef, but in CMO’s case, they’re bucking tradition by doing it animal-free, using Lightlife’s Smart Dog wieners. I know some people take issue with soy-based meat alternatives, but as an ingredient, it remains one of the most functional and nutrient-rich sources of protein around. And whatever, it’s tasty and it’s not killing anything.
DETROIT VEGAN SOUL (Vegan | Woman-owned)
19614 Grand River Ave.
Detroit, MI 48223
Detroit Vegan Soul is part of a growing number of Black-owned, vegan food establishments that are writing a new chapter of culinary tradition. It was founded in 2012 by Kirsten Ussery (general manager) and Erika Boyd (executive chef), who are determined to bring nourishing plant-based food to the community.
After opening their initial location in West Village, the team was able to secure $125,000 in financing from the Entrepreneurs of Color Fund, which enabled them to open a second outpost. It’s not only a testament to their success as business people, but to their ability to deliver a great-tasting meal.
First-timers should introduce themselves to the Detroit Vegan Soul menu by way of the Soul Platter, a sampling plate of mac and cheese, smoked collard greens with shitake, maple-glazed yams, and cornbread. If you’re in for a second round, try the catfish tofu and meatballs (made from eggplant).
Their Grand River Avenue eatery is currently open Wednesday through Friday for online orders, pickup, and delivery (no dine in). There’s also a weekly meal subscription service, catering, and freshly baked cakes (which can be shipped nationwide).
SEVA (Vegetarian & vegan)
66 E. Forest Avenue
Detroit, MI 48201
At first glance, Seva looks like the kind of spot you’d go to with family or friends when you’re searching for something uncomplicated and likely to please a crowd of fussy eaters. On closer inspection of the menu, this statement remains accurate. But you’ll notice that everything on the menu also happens to be vegetarian or vegan.
Seva first opened in Midtown but, due to its popularity, has expanded to a second Detroit location. The secret to their success? They offer options, lots of them, that are familiar and recognizable. Perhaps that’s why the restaurant has a reputation for winning over carnivores.
Straight out the gate we’ve got spinach and artichoke dip, chili cheese fries, bruschetta, and nacho dip on the appetizers list. It gives TGI Friday’s, but without the corporate machinations or factory-farmed ingredients. The family-style thread continues throughout the dinner menu, with dishes like jambalaya, pad Thai, vegan mac, and asparagus ravioli that’s available by the pan for carryout.
I’m a particular fan of the wine and beer offering, which takes up an equally dominant share of the menu space. If cocktails are your thing, you’ll be pleased to find a short list of affordable classics, like margaritas, mojitos, and an Aperol spritz.
Sampling Seva in Detroit
OK, now it’s back to Nava. In addition to the three restaurants Veronica highlights, above, she also lists Freya and Pie-Sci Pizza. I would have loved to try all of them, but time was short and a side trip to Ann Arbor took a few days as well (by the way, the oddly named Detroit Street Filling Station is a fantastic completely vegan eatery that I got to try in Ann Arbor).
But now I have a list of options for the next time I’m in Detroit. My daughter and a friend stopped at Seva for lunch on a picture perfect day (a rarity in Detroit, where we used to say there are two seasons, winter and July), and enjoyed eating outdoors on their generous, tented terrace. Here’s what we had (pardon my phone photography). Portions are generous, and everything was delicious, if a bit pricey.
For the appetizer, we had General Tso’s Cauliflower, perfectly crispy and nicely spiced.
My daughter had Vegan Mac, which is made with a creamy cashew-based sauce and served with garlic bread.
My selection was Chargrilled Vegetable Bowl, which is served on a bed of quinoa and baby spinach. Believe it or not, the two things that look like biscuits are actually a homemade almond cheese.
My friend had a salad that isn’t on the regular menu, so it must have been a special that day. It was a generous bowl of raw vegetables and roasted chickpeas, and since he’s not vegan, he got it topped with feta cheese.
More about Plant-Based USA:
A Travel Guide to Eating Animal-free in America
by Veronica Fil
HARDIE GRANT BOOKS | 2023| PAPERBACK | $29.99
Plant-Based USA: A Travel Guide to Eating Animal-free in America is a guidebook for anyone looking for plant-forward and vegan-friendly eating and travel options in top cities across the United States.
Author and plant-based entrepreneur Veronica Fil spent more than a year crisscrossing the country, researching and eating her way through the best plant-based restaurants and food markets. She covers spots at a variety of price points—from the hip new Slutty Vegan that began in Atlanta to fine-dining Michelin-starred tasting menus like Dirt Candy in New York City.
This guidebook and directory shines a light on the many unique, innovative, and climate-conscious dining options in eighteen cities and is ideal for anyone incorporating more plant-based meals into their lifestyle.
With insightful and witty listings, the book is organized into chapters by city and covers everything from restaurants, cafes, markets, and festivals to shopping and even accommodation. Plant-based USA also features personal stories, recipes, and travel tips from leading chefs and public figures on the American plant-based scene.
More than just big cities, Veronica includes favorite cities to travel to where readers might be surprised to find a variety of plant-based options, including Columbus, Cleveland, Dallas, Denver, Detroit, Kansas City, Las Vegas, and Orlando. She’s created an accessible and comprehensive guide that perfectly aligns with the future of food in America.
Veronica Fil is a food business founder and writer based in the U.S. In 2019, Veronica and her partner, award-winning chef Shaun Quade, left their former Australian restaurant and moved to California to launch the wildly innovative Grounded Foods Co., an alternative dairy start-up. As CEO of Grounded, Veronica dedicates her time to making plant-based cheese more nutritious and delicious than it’s ever been before and helping to shape an environmentally resilient future food system without reliance on animal proteins.
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